As my fellow cruisers and I stepped aboard the top deck of the gleaming new Boheme riverboat moored near Luang Prabang, Laos, we were welcomed with a traditional baci ceremony that set the spiritual tone for our journey to come.
While we sat barefoot on colorful carpets around a pha wan marigold floral arrangement, five village elders chanted prayers to bless our voyage.
Indeed, good fortune followed our entire three-night cruise on this 26-passenger vessel, the largest and most luxurious on the Laos stretch of the Mekong River, Southeast Asia's longest.
Since its December debut, the Boheme -- from the small, Laos-based riverboat company Mekong Kingdoms -- has offered a rare view of Laos' culture and scenery to a new wave of cruisers that includes those who have done the tried-and-true European itineraries.
With its blend of guided exploration and first-class amenities, the Boheme is a sea change for deluxe cruising in this less-visited part of the world.
Time slowed as we glided leisurely past colorful fishing boats, misty green hills and serene villages clinging to the shore. Each day revealed more of the country's iconic landscapes and cultural treasures.
Pak Ou Caves, a sacred Buddhist site tucked into a limestone cliff overlooking the Mekong and filled with thousands of golden Buddha statues. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
We explored the Pak Ou Caves, a sacred Buddhist site tucked into a limestone cliff overlooking the Mekong and filled with thousands of golden Buddha statues. The tiny figurines have been left by pilgrims over many centuries.
We hiked along lush paths through Kuangsi Waterfall Park, an Instagram-worthy series of cataract-fed turquoise pools shrouded by dense jungle, where we swam in the cool waters.
We participated in two craft-making opportunities guided by skilled artisans. In the village of Xangkhong Posa, famous for its saa paper production, we tried our hands at fashioning our own paper artwork using mulberry tree bark, fresh flowers and leaves.
Afterward, we sampled tea brewed from silkworm dung, a traditional medicinal remedy. And in the pottery village of Ban Chan, we sat at potter's wheels to throw small bowls of our own.
Other excursions included a visit to the Elephant Conservation Center in Sayaboury, which provides a safe haven for these rescued animals from across Laos.
Turquoise pools at Kuangsi Waterfall Park. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
A boutique experience
The sleek, 164-foot Boheme delivers an exclusive boutique experience. A crew of 20, which included a cruise manager, tour guides, spa therapists, chefs and mixologists, catered to our every need.
Between excursions, we learned to craft Laotian delicacies, honed our cocktail skills and were pampered with massages in two treatment rooms. Or we just relaxed on comfy loungers on the sprawling sun deck, while watching the river snake endlessly to the horizon.
Two of the three decks accommodate just 13 spacious suites, each equipped with air conditioning and premium amenities such as a high-quality sound system, a Nespresso coffee machine and a minibar area stocked with Laotian beer, rice whiskey, Thai teas, sodas, fresh fruit and yummy homemade cookies.
Premier View suites on the Boheme feature Juliet balconies. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Mekong Kingdoms
The stylish decor is rich in local touches -- from bed throws made with Laotian ikat fabric and polished teakwood floors to orchid-filled urns and vintage prints on the walls.
The roomy rainfall showerhead-equipped bathroom in soft gray marble even had a bidet-like water dispenser. I luxuriated in my 323-square-foot deluxe suite on the lower deck, cocooning dreamily on its large private balcony.
Premier View suites have Juliet balconies, and the 646-square-foot Royal Suite features a private sundeck, freestanding windowside tub and dedicated butler service.
The view from the Boheme at sunset. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
Local fare
Chef Khone's artfully presented, Michelin-worthy meals took center stage each day.
We gathered in the evening for cocktails and delectable Asian canapes served on the top deck as the sunset bathed the river in its fiery glow. Then we tucked into farm-to-table local specialties, such as pla keung, river fish with pumpkin, bok choy and Xang Hai whiskey sauce and larb ped, duck salad with herbs, rice powder, chili powder and banana blossom. Starters included avocado tartare with ponzu and kai phan and chin dod, freshly plucked riverweed and deep-fried, sun-dried pork.
Vegetarian options were plentiful throughout.
We ended our journey with an overnight at the chic Avani+ Luang Prabang Hotel. After a day of exploring this Unesco World Heritage town's ancient temples, French colonial architecture and vibrant night market, I awoke before dawn the next morning to participate in the daily tradition of giving alms to Buddhist monks.
As I knelt on the sidewalk before the steady stream of bowl-carrying, gold-robed monks -- some as young as 8 years old -- and doled out small sticky-rice balls, this reverend ritual felt like the perfect bookend to the baci ceremony at the start of my voyage. Turns out that this cruise, so authentic and enriching, had immersed me deep into the sacred heart of Laos.
All-inclusive itineraries are five nights between Luang Prabang and the Laotian capital of Vientiane or three nights roundtrip from Luang Prabang. Cruises run from April through December. Visit www.mekongkingdoms.com to learn more.
